Brrrr, it’s cold out today! So I thought I’d show you the coat (well, one of three coats!) I made last winter.
It all started when I saw this gorgeous yellow wool/angora doublecloth at EmmaOneSock. This exact color is no longer available, but there are still several colors of the same cloth on the site. Doublecloth is actually two layers of fabric that are woven, or sewn, together with connecting threads. The layers can be carefully separated, which allows for some unusual construction techniques. I’d never worked with this type of fabric before. The entire coat is one layer of fabric – no facings, no hems! First of all, look at this fabric and try to imagine how heavenly it feels! It was a joy to work with!
For the seams, I separated the layers of the fabric for twice the width of the seam allowance, machine stitched the outer layers together, then turned under and hand stitched the inner layers. I also ended up topstitching from the right side along both sides of the seams. This shows the inside of a seam.
I used Butterick 5685, with some changes. This is the right collar, and you can see how supple it is. The edges of the collar, the front opening, and the hems were finished by separating the fabric layers as for the seams, turning in both edges, then stitching the folded edges together by hand. Time-intensive, but I got to fondle the fabric all that time! 🙂
Because I didn’t want any stitched buttonholes, and I wasn’t able to make a bound buttonhole that I liked, I added a seam across the left bodice at the level of the top button. Then, I was able to make inseam buttonholes. I added strips of silk organza on both sides of the openings after I had separated the fabric layers, to prevent the buttonholes from stretching.
I wanted to line the sleeves and back bodice, both to add a little warmth, to hide some soft shoulder pads, and to make it easier to put on and take off. I had a pale yellow China silk in my stash, but it wasn’t heavy enough to wear well, so I quilted the silk to some muslin, then cut out the lining pieces. The lining was hand-stitched to the inside of the coat.
I covered some large snaps with the silk to secure the front underlap.
To really make the coat shine, I appliqued flowers on the large left front lapel! I separated the fabric layers of a block of fabric, so the applique pieces are just one layer of the doublecloth. The edges were turned under, and appliqued to the collar with fine silk thread. The flower centers were padded with just a bit of poly stuffing.
If you’re familiar with my quilting, you may notice a similarity between these flowers and those I use in much of my quilting. I guess I just can’t get away from these five-petalled flowers!