Another Rose

In my previous post, I featured variations of my Rose pattern. This is another dress made from that pattern.  I thought this one needed its own post!

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This dress was made from white and gray Robert Kaufman Radiance fabric.  This fabric is a silk/cotton blend, and it is one of my favorites for both garments and quilts.  You can see some of my quilts made with this lovely stuff in some of my previous posts here, here, and here.

I’ll go through some of the adaptations I made to the pattern.  First of all, I added godets to the skirt, for the most wonderful twirliness.

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To do this, I divided the rectangular skirt front into four equal sections, and the back into three (there is no godet at center back, not at the side seams.)  The godets are segments of a circle – the legs of the godet are the length of the finished skirt.  I used a quick-rigged compass – a pin, pencil, and string of the correct length – to draw the curve at the hemline.  While I allowed a deep hem (4″) on the white sections, that wouldn’t work on the curves of the gray, so I allowed for only a narrow hem (1″) at the lower edge.

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I stitched the skirt sections together, then embroidered over the seamlines with thread to match the gray fabric.  The embroidery designs are from the Martha Pullen Kent State Museum Collection, Volume 2, Disk 1.

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For the front bodice, I reshaped the neckline, then added an appliqued yoke that echoed the neckline shape.  Again, the embroidery was stitched over the seam.  The bodice back is unchanged from the pattern, and the bodice is lined with batiste, which finished the neckline.  Oh, yes, I also interfaced the neckline with silk organza.

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The cap sleeves from the pattern have a small embroidery stitched on them, and are also lined with batiste.

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The front “belt” is FSL embroidery from the Martha Pullen/Zundt CD, Vol. 3.  The lace was stitched on WSS, soaked, and then stitched on top of the finished waistline seam.

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The back waist is finished with a big silk organza sash.

Then, to top everything off, I added some hot-fix Swarovski crystals.  You can see them in the previous photos accenting the embroidery on the skirt front (I didn’t add the crystals to the skirt back,) sleeves, bodice, and belt.

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I even added them to the dark gray pearl buttons after they were sewn on!

I no longer have this dress, so I’m glad I took lots of photos.  I hope this and the previous post give you ideas on how to take a basic existing pattern and change it up in lots of ways.

8 thoughts on “Another Rose

  1. Wow! This just takes my breath away. It is stunning!! You are so gifted, and I say that because not just anyone can do this. I have all your patterns and hope to sew the dresses for my last granddaughter, who is not quite two yet. I smocked her Easter dress with bunnies on it for Easter this year. Have been smocking for thirty years. Following Martha and all of you for thirty one years now. Thank you for a wonderful journey into the world of heirloom and fine sewing. God bless!
    Donna

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Wonderful dress. I really love the contrast of white and gray so beautifully done and I’m sure whatever little one got to wear this felt extremely special. Thanks for sharing and describing the process. It made me think about the time years ago when I made lots of wedding dresses, but did not have the machines i do now. Then I did a lot of cutting motifs from nice laces and hand appliqueing them down. Isn’t it wonderful how much we can do now? Your work is so very fine, I never cease to enjoy it.

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    • Thanks, Betty Jo! No one ever got to wear this dress. I made it for Sew Beautiful, and it apparently disappeared in the chaos of the shutdown of the magazine. Our machines and what they can do are indeed wonderful, but handwork is wonderful, as well.

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  3. So stunning Susan. Love being able to learn so much about your work thru your photos and narration. Thanks!
    Hugs, Mary Hawkins

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